Depending on the software you choose, your approach to adjusting exposure will vary. In most software packages, there's a levels tool, which is great for exposurecorrections.Mostlevels tools usually give you three sliders: a shadows slider (on the left side), a highlights slider (on the right side), and a midpoint slider. Movingtheshadowsslider toward the middle of the histogram will "cut into" your shadows. Doing this means that more of your photo will bepureblack--greattoadd a some moodiness to your How you decide to adjust your exposure depends on the final effect you wish to accomplish. It might be that you just want to subtly brighten a photo to make it stand out more, or you may decide that a particular photo lends itself well to more creative manipulation and that more extreme measures work well. You know best what you are trying to achieve; use the tools available to create the feel you are looking for. range (that's the amount of data that can be captured between the brightest and the darkest part of the picture), digital cameras have quite recently caught up. It's not always possible, but as someone who grew up shooting images on film, seeing previously overexposed areas come back and be usable is nothing short of magic. It feels as if it should be impossible, but it's happening right in front of your eyes. So, if you've overexposed an image, don't worry, all hope is not lost. Because you shot in camera RAW, your file actually contains Savinganoverexposed image