Safari Books Online is a digital library providing on-demand subscription access to thousands of learning resources.
Seven steps to better images.
All optical instruments use lenses in one form or another. Refractors have a single large objective lens, and binoculars have two. SCTs and other catadioptric scopes have a corrector plate, which is actually a large lens. Even Newtonian reflectors have lenses in their eyepieces.
Lenses inevitably become dirty with use. A dirty lens provides poor, lowcontrast images, so it's necessary to clean your lenses from time to time. But lenses are fragile items—particularly their anti-reflection coatings—so it's very easy to do more harm than good if you clean them improperly.
Fortunately, the proper lens-cleaning procedure is straightforward. Use the following steps to clean your lenses safely and effectively.
Establish a clean, uncluttered, well-lit working environment. The kitchen table is usually a good choice. You'll also need a strong light, such as a flashlight, that you can direct at a grazing angle against the lens surface to reveal grit particles on the lens. If you are cleaning a large lens, such as a refractor objective, that you have removed from the scope, wear thin cotton gloves to avoid getting fingerprints on the glass.
|
Use an ear syringe or similar device to blow off any dust visible on the surface of the lens. Don't use your mouth, or you will probably spray saliva on the lens. (In an emergency, we have blown through an ordinary drinking straw to remove dust from an eyepiece.) Don't use canned air, either, because it may spray propellant onto the lens.
Examine the lens carefully under a strong light to make sure no dust or grit remains on the surface. You can remove a persistent particle by slightly moistening a tissue or cotton swab with Windex or a similar cleaning solution and blotting (not rubbing) the surface of the lens to pick up the particle. If necessary, use the blower again to remove any remaining dust.
|
Moisten a tissue or cotton swab with cleaning fluid. You want it damp, but not dripping wet. Begin at the center of the lens and wipe outward very gently, using a circular motion, as shown in Figure 4-17. If you've used too much cleaning fluid, it will spread over the lens surface. You want the swab or tissue to be just wet enough that you can watch a bead of cleaning fluid follow the movement of the swab or tissue. If you stop moving the swab or tissue, it should immediately reabsorb the bead of cleaning fluid. If you've used too much cleaning fluid, or if you move the swab or tissue too quickly, the bead breaks away from the swab or tissue and will dry on the lens, leaving spots.
Replace the tissue or cotton swab frequently as you clean the lens. You may be able to clean an eyepiece or other small lens with one tissue or cotton swab. For larger lenses or smaller lenses that are badly smudged, using one tissue or swab too long merely spreads the gunk rather than picking it up.
The edge of the lens is the hardest part to get clean. As you approach the edge, replace your tissue or swab with a tissue folded into a sharp corner and moistened slightly with cleaning fluid. (Make sure not to touch the working area of the tissue with your finger to avoid contaminating it with skin oils.)
When you complete this procedure, the lens should appear clean when examined with a strong light at a grazing angle. If any lint fibers from the tissues or swabs remain on the lens, use your blower to remove them.
Some astronomers treat the choice of cleaning fluid as a religious issue, but the truth is that almost anything reasonable works fine. We have used commercial lens cleaning solutions, methanol (methyl alcohol), ethanol (ethyl alcohol), isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol), and acetone. (Be careful using acetone around painted or plastic surfaces; it may dissolve them.)
|
Although some astronomers insist that only reagent-grade solvents are acceptable—and we suspect our organic chemist friend Paul Jones of using purer still spectroscopic grade solvents on his lenses—we've never had a problem using drugstore-grade USP solvents. Even the alcohols and acetone sold in metal gallon cans at the hardware store are fine. The important thing is to use a pure solvent rather than a mixture. For example, the acetone sold as fingernail polish remover often contains scents and oils that leave a film on the lens. Similarly, some drugstore alcohol contains scents, rubifacients, or other adulterants.
Our first choice of cleaning solution is isopropanol. We prefer 91% isopropanol, but that may be difficult to find. You can buy 70% isopropanol at any drugstore for about $1/pint, and it also works well. For water-soluble spotting, such as that caused by dried dew, commercial glass cleaners like Windex or Glass Plus work fine. (Just don't spray them on the lens as you would on a window.)
|